Silicones or not?
Molecular structure of SiliconeLet's talk about silicones. I remember when I first embarked on returning to my natural curls. I read every blog, watched every girl on YouTube and adopted every newfound revelation. Looking back on it now, it was quite silly.
As naturals we are taught to avoid silicones at all cost. Silicones in the natural world are deemed evil. I'm here to tell you, that is not completely true. As a long time natural, I try to avoid silicones but I must be honest, I don't pay attention as often as I should.
Effects of not Removing Silicones
Using silicones that cannot be removed or penetrated with water can cause damage to your hair. Silicones stick to your hair create a plastic-like barrier (build-up) on your strand. This barrier prevents water, air, and conditioning agents and nutrients from penetrating your strands. Essentially, these suffocate your strands.If you have been using silicones that are not water-soluble your hair may become dry and brittle. This dryness will lead to damaged hair, resulting in breakage.
In the salon, majority of my new clients complain of dry hair. Most of my new clients get their hair clarified and then a deep conditioning treatment to restore the moisture. Removing the build up from non-water soluble product usage can take anywhere from one to five shampoos. After this is done, clients usually return and tell me the difference they see in their hair. I get testimonials of soft hair, moisture retention, and how much easier it is to detangle.
Water-Soluble Silicones
These silicones dissolve in water, are easy to wash out, and do not leave a heavy build up. These are the silicones that enable some naturals to thrive off of co-washing only.
WATER-SOLUBLE SILICONES EXAMPLES
Dimethicone Copolyol
Lauryl Methicone Copolyol
Any Silicone with a PEG as a Prefix
You may have to do the leg work to ensure that all of your products are water-soluble but I believe that it would be extremely beneficial.
For someone like me I need to do the leg work. I am suffering from dry hair and need products that hydrate my hair. Using water-soluble products would help me to have a weekly, biweekly hair care plan.
Non-Water Soluble Silicones
These silicones are not dissolvable with water. These silicones sit on your hair and prohibit the absorption of water, air, and conditioning agents. These silicones can be also be found in your rinse-out conditioners.
NON-WATER SOLUBLE SILICONES EXAMPLES
Dimethicone/Amodimethicone (unless Trideceth-12 and Centrimonium Chloride are present)
Stearyl Dimethicone
Dimethiconol
Most of the heavier products like shea butters, hair grease and oils prevent water from penetrating the hair strands.
Benefits of Silicone
Silicones are not completely horrible. They help to seal your cuticle to prevent frizz and heat damage. Silicones also help with color retention. The key to using silicones responsibly is to clarify your hair monthly or as often as needed to remove build up.
